How To Build a DIY Propane Fire Pit Table in 7 Easy Steps

If you want to bring more fun to your outdoor space, make it more enjoyable with a DIY propane fire pit table, which I’ll show you in a few easy steps. A propane fire pit table utilizes a handful of basic tools such as a table saw, circular saw, trim gun, trim nails, a hammer, and a miter saw. Learn how to build a DIY propane fire pit table in 7 easy steps.

It is an exciting patio project that allows you to display your DIY skills in masonry, metalworking, woodworking, and some mechanicals. I know that sounds like too much already, but the process is more straightforward than you think.

Follow along as I share with you seven easy steps of erecting a fire pit table at almost half the price when you shop for a store-bought propane gas fire pit.

Supplies For a DIY Propane Fire Pit Table

Here are the tools and materials you’ll need for your outdoor fire pit.

Tools/Equipment

Materials

  • Cedar
  • Propane burner kit
  • Quikrete Countertop Mix

7 Easy Steps For Building a DIY Propane Fire Pit Table

Follow the step-by-step procedures below to make a DIY propane fire pit.

Step # 1 Cut Your Wood Pieces and Join Them Appropriately

Start with the burner housing. Make six 4-footers, 2 x 4-inch from your three eight-foot cedar, and secure the frames as shown below.

step 1

Image and Tutorial Credit: Family Handyman

Step # 2 Attach Your Side Frames to the Corner Posts

Cut thick corner posts of about 4×4-inch and attach them to your ready side frames — pre-drill holes for your screws to flash.

step 2

Image Credit: Family Handyman

You should support your frames with inner angle braces, as indicated below. Make them about 11/2 x11/2 inches and 9-inch long. Check using a framing square to make sure all posts are at their proper angles.

Confirm if the box is square by measuring its diagonal distances from one corner post to the next. Once confirmed, you may then install the brackets.

sstep 3

Image Credit: Family Handyman

Step # 3 Fasten Your Trim Boards and Planks

Cut the right side and back trim boards but do not cut the front. Using construction adhesive, set your trim board to two in one-inch spacers, and drive in your 2-1/2-inch screws from the backside of your trim board.

Make sure to angle the screws to avoid poking through your trim board face.

step 4

Cut the side and back groove planks into length and rip 1-inch of your first plank from the back. Cut another 1-inch from the last piece. Remove the groove side from the first piece.

Apply construction adhesive to fasten the planks with 1-inch brads, two near the plank bottom and two at the top of every plank.

step 5

 

Image Credit: Family Handyman

Step # 4 Install Ball Catches On Your Door Frame and Attach The Strike Plates

Assemble the door frames and join them using your 2-1/2 screws. Refer to the ball catch instructions and drill the holes as appropriate on the door frames. Drill in from both sides using a spade bit. You may cut and fit the door planks at this stage.

Slide your ball catches in place and hold firmly using the retaining plate. The plate may sit over the wood surface; you don’t need to cut in the groove.

step 6

Let your door frame bottom rest over the table frame and mark your bottom and top with the strike plate locations using the door frame ball catch retainer plate. Then, install your strike plates backward in the space created by your ¾-In—hole bit.

Hold your strike plate in position and mark using a pencil.

step 7

Image Credit: Family Handyman

You can apply a seal matching your finish on the back and the sides where the corner post meets the tongue-and-groove. Next, apply the seal on the upper side of the door trim board.

Leave the tops of the three remaining trim boards unsealed to allow water to escape through the bottom if it does enter behind the planks.

step 8

Image Credit: Family Handyman

Step # 5 Install Inner and Outer Heat Shields

Cut 3-1/2-in. by 5-in. by 10-ft. galvanized-steel dormer flashing to match your tin snips. Keep the top of your box with the top flush while installing the flashing.

Use 1-¼-inch small screws or trim nails to secure the pieces together, and seal the corners using a gasket maker.

Caution: Never run the burner without stones at the pan as the pan bottom will get hotter.

step 8

Image Credit: Family Handyman

Cut your galvanized-steel deck ledger the same length with your tin snips and pound the flashing flat bottom lip with a hammer. Install as appropriate, leaving a tiny air space between your flashing pieces.

step 9

Image Credit: Family Handyman

Table Form

Use the circular saw to cut the melamine base to size and pre-drill screw holes for fastening it as it cracks easily. Drive them in slowly and make sure they flush. Use 2-inch brads to secure the corners.

Step #6 Mix and Fill the Concrete

Mix your concrete in a mixing tub or a wheelbarrow with a garden hoe or a rake and darken using a Quikrete cement color dye as per the directions. Once properly mixed, put on a comfortable resting place with space to mildly hit bottom to remove any bubbles.

step 10

Image Credit: Family Handyman

Spread the concrete evenly using a taping knife or a concrete trowel. Add a mix of the second bag and place the wire mesh on the top. The mesh helps strengthen the top. Just make sure it’s 2-inch far from the edges.

step 11

Image Credit: Family Handyman

After laying the mesh, add the final mix of cement and spread well to conceal the mesh. Hit the sides gently to remove any bubbles.  You can use a piece of timber to scrape off any excess concrete. Do not wiggle hard as the mesh may sink, causing line shadows.

Give the concrete some time to harden and then smoothen.

step 12

Image Credit: Family Handyman

Step # 7 Finish it Up

Remove the form screws and wall using a pry bar and a  hammer. Get some help flipping the top upside down. Use an exterior-grade concrete sealer to cover the top.

Install your control panel in position and set the top in place.

You may apply the leftover high-temperature silicone to enhance its strength.

Next, install your burner mounting kit and fill the right amount of lava rock into the burner or center hole to maintain the right flame height. Too high will be blown away by the wind, while fewer rocks will overheat the pan.

a photo od finished diy propane fire pit

Image Credit: Family Handyman

Conclusion

Unlike building most outdoor bonfires, a DIY propane fire pit table can be both an intimidating and fun craft when you start.

However, keep in mind that the propane fire pit produces blue flames that will not produce enough heat to warm you up on a chilly night as bonfires will.

The charm of flames is a sight to behold, and the light emitted is enough to keep your outdoor space well-lit as you enjoy a bottle of wine with family and friends.

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